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Just a short drive inland from the beaches of the Italian Riviera, Dolceacqua offers a different side of Liguria. Stone houses climb towards a medieval castle, narrow passageways disappear beneath ancient buildings, and an elegant arched bridge crosses the Nervia stream.

This village has attracted travellers and artists for generations, most famously Claude Monet, who visited in 1884. Yet Dolceacqua is more than a picturesque place to photograph. It remains a lively community, shaped by centuries of history, local traditions, food, wine and an active calendar of cultural events.

Where is Dolceacqua?

Dolceacqua lies in the Nervia Valley, in the province of Imperia, Western Liguria, approximately 10 kilometres inland from the Mediterranean coast.

The village is around 10 kilometres from Ventimiglia, 13 kilometres from Bordighera and 25 kilometres from Sanremo. Nice Côte d’Azur International Airport is approximately 50 kilometres away, making Dolceacqua accessible from both the Italian and French Rivieras.

A medieval village shaped by the Doria family

Dolceacqua’s history is closely connected to the powerful Doria family, one of medieval Liguria’s most influential noble families.

The village and castle appear in records dating back to the 12th century. In 1270, Oberto Doria acquired the local feudal territory, beginning a period that would shape the village’s architecture and identity.

Today, Dolceacqua is divided into two neighbourhoods: Terra, the oldest part beneath the castle, and Borgo, which developed across the Nervia stream.

Castello dei Doria

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Dominating the rooftops, the Doria Castle began as a medieval fortress before developing into a fortified aristocratic residence.

The restored complex now houses historical exhibitions and multimedia installations, offering visitors an insight into the village’s past alongside panoramic views across the Nervia Valley.

Dolceacqua and Monaco: five centuries of shared history

Few visitors realise that Dolceacqua has a remarkable historical connection with the Principality of Monaco.

On 3 November 1523, representatives of Dolceacqua and neighbouring communities pledged allegiance to Bartolomeo Grimaldi in Monaco, following a turbulent period of conflict involving the Doria and Grimaldi families.

Exactly 500 years later, on 3 November 2023, Dolceacqua and Monaco formally signed a twinning agreement, celebrating their historical ties.

The occasion included the donation of an organ from Monaco to Dolceacqua’s Church of San Giorgio and the planting of an olive tree originating from Monaco’s Parc Princesse Antoinette.

This connection offers an unexpected glimpse into the intertwined history of these two Mediterranean communities.

The bridge that fascinated Claude Monet

The Ponte Vecchio is undoubtedly Dolceacqua’s most recognisable landmark.

Its single stone arch, spanning approximately 33 metres, connects the Terra with the Borgo and has inspired generations of artists.

Among them was Claude Monet, who explored the Riviera in 1884 after an earlier journey with Pierre-Auguste Renoir.

Monet was particularly struck by the village’s bridge and castle, describing the bridge in his correspondence as a jewel of lightness. His paintings, including Le Château de Dolceacqua, immortalised a scene that remains remarkably familiar today.

In 2019, his work returned temporarily to Dolceacqua for a special exhibition at the Doria Castle, part of the cultural initiative Monet Returns to the Riviera.

Exploring the historic Terra

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Crossing the bridge into the Terra reveals a fascinating network of carugi, narrow stone streets connected by staircases and covered passageways.

The route climbs towards the castle, passing small squares, historic doorways and occasional glimpses across the rooftops.

Among the village’s artistic treasures is a 16th-century polyptych by Ludovico Brea, featuring Saint Devota, patron saint of Monaco, preserved in the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate.

Dolceacqua also has a quieter artistic side, with local galleries and the Giovanni Morscio Art Gallery offering further reasons to explore beyond its famous monuments.

Rossese di Dolceacqua and local gastronomy

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The landscape surrounding Dolceacqua is characterised by olive groves and terraced vineyards producing Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC, one of Liguria’s most distinctive red wines.

Generally lighter and more elegant than many Italian reds, Rossese is appreciated for its red-fruit character, delicate spice and freshness.

Visiting a local winery is an excellent way to discover this wine and the agricultural traditions of the Nervia Valley. Producers include Terre Bianche, Altavia, Testalonga and the Maixei cooperative.

Local cuisine is equally rooted in the countryside. Traditional specialities include barbagiuai, fried pastry parcels filled with pumpkin and other ingredients, ravioli c’ù pesigu, handmade pasta closed with a characteristic pinch, and coniglio alla ligure, often prepared with Rossese wine and olives.